I mentioned in my previous blog that I had purchased a
Skydrop irrigation controller. I am very
handy and have done many household repairs and construction, but I am always
sensitive to working around water and electricity. Installing an irrigation controller means
working with both. I first reviewed Skydrop’s
installation video, which was very informative and short. I then reviewed another video, which was a
bit longer and equally informative.
I prepared by doing two things. First, I took my laptop into the garage,
where my irrigation controller was located.
I accessed the installation video so that I had it there to work from and
to test the strength of WiFi signal. I
had full bars – this was good as it meant that I did not need to install a WiFi
range extender. Second, I found a pad of
paper and a pen to write everything down.
If you are like me, then you will want to prepare a map (which the
irrigation installer should have prepared for me along with all of the
necessary information) and a spreadsheet outlining the number of sprinkler
heads, the type of sprinkler heads, gallons of minute throughput and location.
With all of this ready, I started up the video again and
began the step by step installation. I
first opened my existing controller and took pictures of the wires and
connections with my iPhone. I would use
these photos if needed as a backup. I
disconnected the controller from the electrical outlet. I then disconnected one wire at a time,
labeling each with the number of the corresponding water zone. I have 12 zones. The Skydrop controller only has room for 8
zones (controller is approximately $250, which may sound expensive, but if you
need to replace your existing one with an updated model, you will pay the same
or more depending upon the features).
However, Skydrop offers an expansion panel for an additional 8 water
zones for a total of 16 zones. This
extension costs about $50. So, your all
in cost is $300 plus your time and labor.
Check your local communities and utilities to see if they have any
rebates.
The controller mounts to the wall with 4 screws
(included). It also includes a level to
level the mounting panel. Once leveled
and secured to the wall, plug the power cord into the panel and then into the
electrical outlet. Connect the common
wire (usually white) to the C on the panel.
Then, take your numbered wires and consecutively connect them one by
one. This control panel includes a Hot
position marked H, which is used to test each zone. This was perfect because I walked to each
zone to see if the connection turned on the zone and if it did, I diagramed the
number of sprinklers on my map and put the information on my spreadsheet. After testing the zone, I inserted the wire
into its corresponding numbered connection.
I did this for all 12 zones. From
watching the videos to finally connecting the LCD screen of the controller to
the mounting panel and expansion panel, it took about 90 minutes. I have lived in the house for 16 years and
this was the first map and spreadsheet that I had of the irrigation
system.
The moment that I clicked the LCD screen to the mounting and
expansion panels, the Skydrop logo light turned on and the jog dial turned on –
yellow. The jog dial turns a different
color for a different action. There are
5 different colors:
Yellow – controller will need to be connected or reconnected
to the WiFi for Smart Watering and remote access, or controller can be setup
(as-is, no WiFi) using Custom Scheduling or Interval Watering.
Red – error with the valves or wiring. Usually, the faulty zone is indicated within
the user interface of the controller, web app or mobile app. Once the zone is determined, a thorough
investigation of the valve and wiring will help resolve the problem.
Green – controller is ready to receive and execute
instructions.
Blue – controller is watering and edits cannot be made
without ending the current water cycle.
White (no glow) – on controller, you can disable the green
glow while idling, which turns off the jog dial. On the web or mobile app, this indicates that
watering is currently disabled.
The yellow glow was present as it was searching for a WiFi
signal. Once it lists the signals, you
rotate the jog dial until your WiFi is highlighted and press the jog dial to
accept. The controller then guides you
through several instructions to setup the controller to your protected
WiFi. It asks you to download the iPhone
or Android app and type into the app – a code.
Once the controller recognizes the receipt of the code, it moves to the
next set of instructions. After
inputting the zip code, I declined to set up a watering schedule and hit
finished. I could have stood there and
entered all of the relevant information for each zone, but using the jog dial
would have taken too long. I took the
laptop back inside, accessed the web and logged in. Setting up the schedule was very straight
forward. It asks for the type of soil,
sunlight exposure, type of watering sprinkler, number of water sprinklers per
zone, etc. I was able to give a name to
each zone, which will be easier to trouble shoot any problem should one develop
later. There is also a provision for
water restrictions that may be set at the community, city or state level. Once
everything was saved on the web, I tapped the iPhone app and voila, all of the
information that I had typed into the website populated to the app. I tested both the app and the website app to
remotely turn on one of the zones and everything worked.
The total amount of time to connect to the internet and
program the apps took about 30 minutes.
Add this to the above 90 minutes of actual installation of the
controller and testing of the zones, you need 2 hours for 12 stations. All of this was easier and quicker than I
expected. The software was far more
robust and much easier to navigate than I expected. So far, I would give this a 5-star
rating. The next blog will cover the actual
operations.